Capt. Bob Paccia - the lower Cape's premier light tackle and fly fishing guide

False Albacore Arrive In Buzzards Bay

September 9, 2014 by  

photo-deluxe-pictures-010Mykle-Gordan's-1st-false-albacorebj-clarks-1st-albieright_main

Marc Feldman's first albacre on a fly.

Marc Feldman’s first albacore on a fly.

At last, false albacore have returned to our Buzzards Bay waters. Pods are showing up in the Cape Cod Canal giving shore-bound anglers a shot at hooking up to one of these legendary speedsters. The recent windy conditions have made it difficult for both anglers and birds to spot these fish-pods, but careful and patient observation will serve you well. This is true for both shore-bound anglers and boaters as well.

BOATERS BEWARE…”Running and Gunning” “Ain’t The Way To Go!” You won’t get as many hook-ups, you’ll waste a lot of gas, you’ll scare the fish putting them down, and most importantly, you’ll piss-off every other boater in the area. In years past there have been many, many verbal and even physical assaults during our bonito and false albacore seasons. Don’t be “One Of Those Guys”!

THE BEST WAY,  for boaters to fish for “funny fish” is to observe how the pods are working the bait. Watch where they start their attack up-current, and how far they go down-current. Keep in mind, that they usually repeat the same routes over and over. Once you have established their pattern, it is simple to do the following: Go well up-current of where the albacore first started their attack, cut the engine (if you can do so safely). Wait for them to show up again and start your drift, with them. REMEMBER, stay well away from other boats who are still doing their drift.

Fly fishing tackle, I recommend using a 7.5 to 9′, 10 lb to 12 lb, Fluorocarbon, knotless tapered leader. Remember, these speedsters have super vision and are very leader shy. Attach your fly with a loop-style knot such as a well lubricated (with spit) Non-slip mono loop knot. http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/non-slip-loop-knot/.

Flies- Again, because false albacore have such great eyesight, you’ll have to match the hatch. Size, color and profile which are all important. If you have a small dip net available you can simply scoop up some of the regurgitated bait and inspect them to see what the albacore are feeding on.

Stripping Basket- I highly recommend using a stripping basket to keep fly line and backing off the water or off the boat deck, as the name of the game is “LINE MANAGEMENT”. Having an albacore ripping off a hundred yards of line and then having him turn to come at you at the same speed is no time to have a bunch of line all around you…

Strip- I like using a two handed stripping technique, that is, putting the rod under your casting arm and  stripping the fly line as follows: your right hand pulls the line back about 18 to 24 inches as your left hand now grabs and stops the line. Continue doing this until your fly is about 25 to 30 feet from the rod tip. Now, lift your rod and start your back cast. One thing to remember is that you want to get your next cast off with no more than 3 backcasts. That means that you’ll have to learn to use double hauling, which is a fly casting technique that means that you’ll have to pull back on your line when making your back cast and your fore cast. This, in turn will speed up both your back cast and fore cast. Once you have perfected this technique, you will add much distance to you fly cast. midcurrent.com/videos/joan-wulff-the-doublehaul 

Remember, when you are stripping your line in, to keep the rod tip about a foot above the water and aimed at the incoming line so that you don’t have any bulge in the line. Also if you get a hit, keep the rod tip down so that the fish hooks itself. Once the fish has hooked-up you can raise the rod to keep some pressure on the fish, but not too much. Keep in mind, that an albacore can rip off a hundred yards of line off your reel in a matter of seconds. You really can’t do much on the first run of the fish, other than maintaining some pressure on him. Don’t forget that in most cases we’re using a 10 to 12 pound test tippet, so you can’t try to horse the fish in without parting your fly. Allow the fish to run when he’s pulling hard and retrieve line whenever you can, using the “reel-down, lift-up technique”. Always keep the rod bent so you can maintain some pressure on the fish.

Fly patterns-It is important to use the right fly to match the hatch when possible, remembering that it’s size, color and  profile that makes a difference. For example, if the fish are targeting a thin profiled bait like sandeels, you don’t want to try to copy the fly with a full profiled fly like a baby bunker pattern. Why, one is thin and long and the other is short and fat. Not a very good match. If you don’t have an exact copy fly pattern, use the closest pattern that you have.

Recommended Fly Patterns-

  1. Baby Bunker
  2. Sand eels
  3. Bonito Bunnies
  4. Silver sides
  5. Lefty’s Deceivers
  6. Clousers

Recommended Fly Lines-

  1. Full Sinking Line
  2. Sinking Tip Line
  3. Intermediate Line

 

GOOD LUCK

Tight lines, but not too tight,

Capt. Bob Paccia

Shoreline Guide Service

CaptBob@Shore-line.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

20140 Early Season, Big Stripers…Give me a call…

April 13, 2014 by  

Hints on Fly Fishing The Cape Cod Canal

September 2, 2013 by  

  #1   Report Post
Old 08-30-2013, 02:57 PM
fly fishing the canal help

I’m planning to fly fish the canal for the first time in the next couple weeks but wanted to check in to make sure I’ve got the basics covered. I’ll be using a 10wt. with an Orvis depth charge line (around 4″-6″ a sec). Then a leader
, 3′ 50# and 3′ 30#test. Does that seem like a workable leader? Then I’ve always used loop to loop connections for my leader to line. Will that cut the mustard in the canal? I don’t do bimini twists! And for flies lg clousers, half and halfs, and a larger profile big eyed baitfish, and maybe a Bob’s banger. I would welcome any thoughts. thanks…ron
REPLY:

Fly lines:
I have always recommended using a FULL-SINK fly line for saltwater fly fishing as opposed to a SINK-TIP fly line. I believe that your Orvis depth charge line is a sink-tip line. Sink-tip lines usually have a 30 foot sinking section followed by a 70 foot intermediate running line section. Sink-tip style lines are OK in no current/no wave action conditions, but are not very effective when currents or wave actions are at hand. You mentioned that the sink rate for your line was 4″-6″ per second. Keep in mind, that all fly line manufacturers rate their fly line’s sinking rates based upon no-current/no-wave action test pools and that the intermediate section of a sink-tip line is drastically effected by both current and wave action. Current and wave action will cause the intermediate section to have drag and cause bellying. The drag and bellying of the intermediate section has two negative reactions to the sink rate of your sink-tip and your fly. One, the sink rate is much less and the bellying causes you to lose line control. If a fish hits, you won’t be able to feel the strike in time to set the hook. Probably, you wouldn’t even have known that you had a hit.
Using a full-sink line would get your line, leader and fly down to the proper depth that you’d want to be fishing. Also, because full-sink lines are less effected by currents and wave action, you gain a great deal of line control.

I’m not telling you to go out and buy a new full-sinking now, but for the future, it’s something to keep in mind. It will help you to quickly get down to where the bigger fish are lurking.

Leaders:
Your current leader system would work, but I agree with Ray at Captcastafly, I would use a 20# tippet.
Also, I used to tie up knotted leaders for many of the fly fishing shops throughout the Cape and we used to have quite a number of shops in past years. However, today I recommend using 20# test 71/2′ Fluorocarbon leaders. Knotted leaders are OK, but each knot tied into the leader is a potential place for a weed, etc. to hook onto, and knots are all subject to failure. Knot-less leaders also work especially well when casting larger or weighted flies. Because of their gradual taper, they tend to turn these larger and heavier flies over more efficiently and the presentation is much better. I know that the tapered Fluorocarbon leaders are more expensive, but they are nearly invisible and you have enough room in the 20# test end to re-tie 6-8 flies.

Stripping basket:
You didn’t mention if you were going to use a stripping basket. I would highly recommend the use of one, especially fly fishing the canal. Line control is super important and a stripping basket is very important. It keeps your line out of the current, out of the surf and off the rocks along the edge of the canal.

I’m sorry, I know that I tend to be a bit long-winded, but if anything I’ve written is helpful, then I guess it’s OK.

Tight lines, but not too tight,

Capt. Bob Paccia
CaptBob@Shore-line.com
www.Shore-line.com
508-697-6253

Alewives and blueback herring in the Cape Cod Canal

April 5, 2011 by  

Alewives (river herring) and blueback herring are moving into Buzzards Bay via the Cape Cod Canal on their way to local herring runs. You can be sure that the stripers are right on their tails. Now, it is illegal to fish with or even be in possession of river herring in Massachusetts. In years past, live-lining herring was the “way to go” for catching jumbo stripers in the canal and the banks of the canal were lined shoulder to shoulder with anglers fishing with live herring. Today, savvy saltwater fly fishermen have a definite advantage over their plug and plastic bait casters, as nothing looks and behaves like a live herring then a well tied large herring fly. We tie up a lot of alewives and blueback herrings patterns each year to “match the hatch” when the river herring are the “food of choice” for big stripers bulking-up during their spring migration through Buzzards Bay and the Cape Cod Canal. The flies that we tie are weighted and sometimes rattled in sizes from 6 to 14 inches. These flies are tied mostly with synthetic materials to prevent “water-logging” which used to be a problem when we were forced to use only natural materials such as buck-tail, feathers, etc.
Casting these large weighted flies is a learning process and each year we get on the water early in the spring showing clients how to use these large flies so that they will be prepared when the season gets into full swing.
Peek water temperature for great striper fishing in the Cape Cod Canal is when the canal water temperature reaches 55 degrees. Remember one of the old saying: “Cape Cod Canal striper fishing is at its best when the lilac leaves are the size of a mouse’s ears.” Guess what? That’s just about the time that the canal water temperature is right around 55 degrees. You’ve got too love the old timer’s way of using nature’s calendar for predicting fishing conditions…
Keep in mind that water temperatures in the Cape Cod Canal vary throughout the day due to tide changes and current direction. Also, there’s plenty of good fishing when the water temperature is below that 55 degree mark. The best time to be on the water is whenever you can get there.

GOOD LUCK!!!
Please e-mail me if you have any comments or questions.
www.shore-line.com
CaptBob@shore-line.com

Now Booking 2013 Trips!

February 21, 2009 by  

Jim Borrebach's 39" striper

Jim Borrebach’s 39″ striper

We’re getting ready for the upcoming season.  Now is a great time to book those trips for the prime season.

Think May and June for Big Stripers, July for those excellent bluefish trips (especially on top-water), and August/September for the Albies, Bonito and other migratory species we love!